a solo skier in the backcountry in val disere

A warm weekend with a snowy week ahead in Val d'Isere

Top tips on where to find quieter skiing this week

Imprint: By Wayne Watson, Updated 29 May 2026

The weekend started off with 5 cm’s of fresh snow and cloudy overcast skies with occasional foggy patches. Any new snow at the moment is gratefully received and it was enough to soften the feel underfoot and with the help of the wind it smoothed out and filled in some tracks.

I had three strong young skiers who hadn’t skied for a few years so we started off with the Face du Bellevarde, which is the run they used for the 1992 Olympic Downhill. It is a long run and fairly steep in places, and when it has fresh snow on it first thing in the morning it is a wonderful start to the day.

The Face du Bellevarde is east facing so if you’re looking for a run to start your day in the sun, the Face is great for good skiers as it is a ‘black’ run. It is groomed every night and the Olympique opens at 08:50 so you can have it totally to yourself if you start early.

It is going to be another busy week and if you want to beat the crowds try this for a plan: First lift up the Olympique at 08:50 and have a quick run down the Face du Bellevarde.

The Solaise Express opens at nine and you’ll be down by 09:05 to 09:10 to beat the ski schools. There may be a little queue but it moves quickly. Then ski the ‘ L’ or the Mattis to the Laisinant. The ‘L’ is a fantastic run first thing when it’s empty it is one of my favourites!

From there work your way up to the Fornet Glacier (Pissaillas) and it will be 11:30 before the rest of the resort catches up with you! Think about an early lunch and then ski again when the rest of the resort is lunching between 12:30 and 2 o’clock. (This would work well for experienced skiers and not recommended for beginners.)

After skiing in flat-light in Tignes on Friday we enjoyed a stunning day of bright blue skies and another dusting of fresh snow on Saturday. I took my team up to the Fornet and we had some brilliant skiing off the Laisinant Express, then in the Combe du Signal, the Combe du 3300, then over the Col Pers and out through the gorge before coming back up for a Pays Desert to finish. It was a big morning and I was pretty tired but extremely satisfied by the end of it!

On Sunday we awoke to bright blue skies that weren’t forecast, so everyone started the day in high spirits. I took my team for a double ‘skin’ to the Crete du Genepy and Mont Roup and we had some wonderful skiing in total solitude, which feels especially nice when you know how many people are in town!

It was incredibly warm and my team ‘skinned’ in t-shirts because of the heat. We then had lunch on the terrace of the Bar d l’Ouillette (at the base of the Madeleine chair on the Solaise sector) and it seemed like a beach party! It’s in full sunshine with great views, the beer is cold and the steaks are grilled on the BBQ. It does get crowded so either come early or book in advance, but you’ll need to queue for your food and drink.

The week ahead looks a little mixed on the weather-front with a sunny day Monday; followed by snow on Tuesday and Wednesday, a partially sunny day on Thursday and full sun again on Friday. What we really need is the forecasted snow to arrive mid-week!

Have a fantastic week and stay tuned for another update on Friday.

Follow more from Wayne in his Daily Diary.

NB. Some of the areas Wayne has been skiing this week are off piste and not suitable to all skiers. Wayne has 35 years experience in these mountains. If you're considering going off piste you should always take a guide with you.

Ski Hire in Val d'Isere

Val Spirit Delivery

Location
Val d’Isere

This is the only independent, British-owned ski and snowboard shop in the Espace Killy ski area which also offers a delivery service to Val d'Isere.
Front de Neige

Location
Val d’Isere

Ski & Snowboard Hire located at the bottom of the slopes, you can leave the shop with your skis on. Save time and money by booking online with Intersport. Have your equipment ready to pick up as soon as you arrive and hit the slopes straight away!
Ab Skishop

Location
Val d’Isere

Florent and his team offer you a warm welcome to their store Ab Ski, which is located in the heart of Val d'Isere on the Avenue Olympique (in between the two roundabouts on this main road).
"Exclusiv" Expérimental Chalet

Location
Val d’Isere

Want to rent skis or snowboards in Val d'Isere? Just visit the Skiset Aigle des Neiges store!
Ski Republic Village

Location
Val d’Isere

Val d’Isère Village ski hire shop is ideally situated in the centre of the village, next to the ski schools and the lift pass office and being directly on the snow front it is ski-in, ski-out!
Boraso Sport

Location
Val d’Isere

No need to carry your ski equipment around with you! Simply pick it up from the ski shop in resort. You can collect your equipment from at least 5pm the day before your 1st skiing day.

Ski Schools in Val d'Isere

Private ski lessons

Established in 1991, this ski and snowboard school was one of the first British-run ski schools in France. Their team is known for going the extra mile, offering excellent customer service and delivering outstanding lessons and guiding.
Group ski lessons

This ski school offers group ski lessons for both children and adults, catering to all ability levels. Their group lessons provide a great and affordable way to improve your skiing in a safe, social and supportive environment.
Private ski lessons

This ski school was set up in Val d'Isère in 2006 and has been hugely successful allowing them to expand into the resorts of Tignes, Les Gets, Morzine and Chamonix.
Group ski lessons

Established in 1991, this ski and snowboard school was one of the first British ski schools in France and is renowned for its fantastic instructors and excellent customer service.
Private ski lessons

This ski school connects snow sports enthusiasts of all abilities with expert ski and snowboard instructors across Europe’s top resorts. With thousands of top-rated, verified instructors to choose from, their private lessons offer a flexible and personalised learning experience.
Group ski lessons

This ski school was set up in Val d'Isère in 2006 and has been hugely successful allowing them to expand into the resorts of Tignes, Les Gets, Morzine and Chamonix.

Airport Transfers in Val d'Isere

Private airport transfers

The team has been organising airport transfers to ski resorts around France since 2012. Their aim has always been to make independent travel to ski resorts cheaper and easier for everyone.
Private and shared airport transfers

This company offers reliable private transfers from Geneva Airport to Val d'Isère. Established and efficient - you can rely on them.
Shared bus airport transfers

A key booking portal for local coach and bus transfers in the French ski resorts. Using this service to coordinate your travel means getting to resort could not be easier.
Private and shared airport transfers

This company offers private and shared transfers from Geneva Airport to Val d'Isere, nearby areas, and resorts across the Alps. With great value fares on all journeys, it’s an easy way to save money.
Shared airport transfers

Booking with them means your holiday won’t involve the stress of public transport, the cost of private transfers, or the hassle of fitting snow chains on a hire car.

Winter Things To Do in Val d'Isere

See our Activity Guide

EMTB on snow

Location
Val d’Isere

Try something new this winter with a guided e-bike session on snow (from eight years old). Join a sunrise ride above Val d’Isère or hire an electric bike in the afternoon and head off on your own adventure.
Helicopter tours

Location
Bourg-Saint-Maurice

A fantastic way to see the resort with your friends and family and a great way to entertain any non-skiers in your group.
Guided snowshoe hikes

Location
Val d’Isere

Discover the charm of snowshoeing and venture to parts of the mountains even skiers don't go.
Heliskiing/boarding

For backcountry adventures, this independent company operates in and around the following three heliski destinations: Valgrisenche, The Courmayeur Valley and the Col de Petit St Bernard Pass. They have pioneered 32 drop zones within these three broad valley regions giving you a huge choice of terrain, snow conditions and mountain orientation to ensure you have a day best suited to your ability and preferences.
Snowmobiling

Passenger or driver, it’s up to you to decide!
Dog Sledding

Location
Val d’Isere

Sledding tours and adventures in the Tarentaise.